People are often asking in comments how I print ABS on open frame 3D printers. For many prints, producing them in ABS is just a matter of upping the bed and nozzle temps and turning off the cooling fan. Other models, however, are destined to failure.
In this guide, I explore ABS printing successes and failures, and explain why ABS can be so difficult to print using some custom animations.
Summary: -ABS needs 240+ for nozzle and 100 for bed. -Fan to be turned off except for bridging, etc. -Shrinkage occurs on thick/solid objects due to the uneven cooling causing the cooler areas to contract. -This results in a lifted base and/or splitting between layers. -The best way to overcome this is to raise ambient temps with an enclosure. -Otherwise you are limited to printing models with thin or narrow sections. -ABS is mainly useful for prints that need to withstand higher temperatures. -ABS can be acetone smoothed! -ABS releases potentially harmful particles into the air where PLA does not. -PETG is a good substitute for ABS.
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